Campagne publicitaire de la collection Automne/Hiver 1980 © Dominique Issermann  

Within the museum's dimly lit, hush-hush environment, "Sonia Rykiel, The Exhibition" plunges visitors into the mysterious universe of Sonia Rykiel by telling her story with an assembly of  220 garments, numerous fashion show videos  and photos. The space replicates a Haussmanian apartment that one explores by passing from one room to another. A rotunda, doors, boudoirs and alcoves are lined up in a shadowy ambiance revealing both the glamorous  and sensual side of the designer.

From pastel evening gowns to little black dresses cut in a multiplicity of shapes and silhouettes, striped pullovers, and "poor boy" garments worn inside out, elegant terrycloth jog suits to sweaters emblazoned with messages…from  chunky knits in bright, primary colors and  frou-frou "chubbies," (short, square-shouldered jackets), floral summer prints, and "pop art" jumpers to bomber jackets and girly accessories, all dolled up with lots of bling-bling…the exhibition groups together numerous themes encompassing the signature of a woman known for her fiery red frizzy locks and her penchant for art, literature and left bank intelligentsia. 

Born in Paris in 1930, Sonia Rykiel began her career in 1962 with a line of maternity clothing for her husband's boutique, "Laura." Six years later  she opened her first boutique in St. Germain des-Pres and almost instantly she was declared the queen of knitwear with her mini-sweaters cut in strangely new proportions. Knitwear become her material of choice that she would work to the point of obsession throughout her career, earning her the title "Queen of Knitwear" by New York trade publication, Women's Wear Daily. 

In 1974, she thumbed her nose at status quo by creating garments with seams on the outside. The hems and linings were erased and abolished, marking a decade of gestures and attitudes which would define a passport to modernity through experimentation and somewhat radical concepts.
 
Sonia Rykiel was also a pioneer in her use of black, a color once reserved for mourning which she transformed into a symbol of modern seduction and liberty.  She used black with somber details to illuminate the pale faces of her models which drew attention to the architecture of the garment.  The American retail buyers, in particular, loved her knitwear because, big or small, skinny or round, all women's body types look fabulous when clad in Sonia Rykiel.
 
With a penchant for clothes that were always accessible and adaptable, Rykiel was the first designer to create clothing for Trois Suisse (catalog) in 1977.A year later she created her first perfume, 7eme Sens, and wrote her first book. In 1982, she collaborated with the Hotel Crillon and was responsible for the décor of their restaurant near the entrance. She launched her childrenswear line in 1984 and her menswear in 1982 with the help of her daughter, Natalie Rykiel. In the 1980's she played an important role with the Chambre Syndicale de Couture des Createurs by sponsoring numerous new talent for entry into their organization including the late American designer, Patrick Kelly.
 
Lady of fashion, lady of words, she writes the way she speaks and she speaks the way she writes. She plays with words and uses them over her clothing in poetic slogans or in books. She has a fascinating signature that fascinates designers, artists and movie producers.
 
Anyone familiar with Ms. Rykiel's work might question the "raison d'etre" of going to this show. Her signature is wildly familiar around the globe;  her clothes so incredibly timeless, you'd almost expect to find many items in the stores today. It is however, the universe of Sonia Rykiel, the everyday pieces punctuated with surprising one-off items (a coat that mimics her massive locks, a political sweater  from the last US presidential elections inscribed "OBAMA," ), the videos of her bouncy, cheerful shows and the link with fashions from past eras that promise to fascinate the visitor.
 
Certain masterpieces coming from the Art Decorative collections were used to relate a brief history of knitwear throughout the centuries along with writings about clothing dating from the 18th century . The charismatic and iconic character of Sonia Rykiel is also revealed through little known documents including a long interview in 1981 given by Andy Warhol himself during his own TV program entitled, "Warhol's TV."
 
The collaboration of Sonia Rykiel with Dominique Issermann is  presented in this body of work as well. Sonia Rykiel was also the first to hire her for a series of ad campaigns from 1978 - 1990. Of all of the photographers who took photos of the designer's environment, Dominque Issermann is the one who participated the most in the creation of the timeless fashion image of the world's premier "knit-wit," Ms. Sonia Rykiel.
 
Sonia Rykiel, The Exhbition
Musées des Arts Décoratifs, 107, rue de Rivoli – 75001 Paris
Tel: 01 44 55 57 50; website: http://www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr
Open: Tues-Fri 11-18h, Thursday until 21h; Sat-Sun 10-18h (On until April 9, 2009)
Entrance: 8 €