Oberkampf & Bastille
by Julie Baker

Café redefined chic

Paris has at last really opened up to non-French cuisine. And, when best to try out those mondo food combos than just before the summer recess?

Le Riad 42, av Charles de Gaulle, Neuilly, Mº Porte Maillot, tel: 01.46.24.42.61, open daily. Just a stone’s throw away from the Palais des Congrès, this jewel-box of a Morrocan restaurant is a total experience, complete with a gorgeous, intimate interior: marble columns, banquets with soft silk cushions, and scalloped ceilings. Attention to detail is everywhere, be it in the menus which read right to left, the hand-made tallow candles, or Chinese service plates, traditionally associated with the aristocracy in Morocco. Similar consideration for decor is reflected in the cuisine, which is based upon classics, using only seasonal ingredients. Stand-out entrées include a magnificent pigeon pastilla: a delicate marriage of sweet and earthy flavors enhanced by light pastry and plump, stuffed sardines served with various salads. Main courses are dominated by a vast selection of tajines or aromatic stews: free-range chicken with confit lemons or magnificent lamb with prunes and almonds. Among the couscous dishes, it is hard to resist Au Méchoui, a half-shoulder of succulent lamb cooked for hours.

Pavillon Noura 21, av Marceau, 16e, Mº Alma Marceau, tel: 01.47.20.33.33, open daily. This sumptuous restaurant offers a splendid range of classic Lebanese fare in a refined setting. Patrons can linger over aperitifs such as champagne or raki, a potent, aniseed-flavored drink, in comfortable armchairs inside a large enclosed terrace, before heading into the dining rooms with their palms, sand-colored walls and sea-blue carpets. The table settings are particularly noteworthy with thick linen, fresh roses, beautiful silverware and fine hand-painted scalloped china. The ideal start to any meal here is the selection of hot and cold entrées, a superb choice of classics that demonstrate Lebanese cuisine at its finest. Among these, miniature minced lamb pastries, as well as a delicate, smoky caviar d’aubergine and tarama, all served with warm unleavened bread. Main courses focus on charcoal grills such as the chicken kebab or lamb, and it is imperative to leave room for the heavenly selection of traditional homemade pastries, with their nuanced flavors of honey, almonds and pistachio. At 168F, the lunch time menu is excellent value, while the extensive wine list affords a rare opportunity to taste the country’s fine wines. And, throughout, the service was excellent.$$$

Nikita 6, rue Faustin-Hélie, 16e, Mº La Muette, tel : 01.45.04.04.33, open daily. Walking into Nikita is like stepping into another world. The large, windowless dining room is dominated by a central dance floor. Banquets line the red velvet walls, with gilt mirrors reflecting golden candelabra. The tables are decorated with romance in mind, again with red candles and red roses. Parisians have long had a love of Russian restaurants to celebrate special occasions. And, Nikita fits the bill, offering live gypsy music and rich traditional fare. Only three fixed-price menus: 250F, 350F and 450F. However, individual items can be ordered separately. Among the entrées, try the splendid Zakouski, including smoked salmon and excellent fresh herring. For a main course we had a perfectly-cooked chicken Kiev and an enormous filet de boeuf Petrov, topped with a generous slice of foie gras. Very well-priced at 200F, our Haut Medoc went perfectly with it. The musicians were a jovial crowd of violinists, accordionists, balalaika players and singers, happy to serenade tables individually and perform to the room as a whole. By night’s end, everyone was on the dance floor... $$$

New Jawad 12, avenue Rapp, 7e, RER Pont de l’Alma, tel : 01.47.05.91.37, open daily. This elegantly-decorated restaurant, with rust-colored carpets, chocolate-hued silk walls, plush chairs, a large enclosed terrace, and extremely spacious table arrangements, specializes in Pakistani and Indian dishes. It offers two unusually reasonable lunch menus, but the à la carte is also great value. Among the entrées, we enjoyed the tender chicken tikka, and the delicious cheese nans, a house speciality. As main dishes, the creamy chicken Punjab, the spicy shrimp massala and the delicious bringal or aubergine curry, are all recommended. Gracious and prompt service. Linen tablecloths and air-conditioning. Pakistani music... And a cleverly selected, reasonably-priced wine list, featuring a fine Tavel rosé for just 100F. $$

Lys d’Or 2, rue de Chaligny, 12e, Mº Reuilly Diderot, tel: 01.44.68.98.88, open daily. On a corner overlooking a quiet square with a fountain, this is a pleasant place to sit outside on the sidewalk, on a warm evening. But, many regulars opt for the sedately-lit, air-conditioned interior: a red and gold decor with comfortable booths and glossy mirrors. The kitchen serves a range of Chinese favorites, often adapted to local tastes, such as the frogs legs with a delicate ginger flavoring or the sautéed scallops and shrimp presented on a nest of grated potato. The wine list is well-priced, and we chose a St-Tropez rosé for 95F. Service is fast and friendly. Definitely a neighborhood favorite, so book in advance, or come early. $$

Dragon Elysées 11, rue de Berri, 8e, Mº Georges V, tel : 01.42.89.85.10, open daily. Entering this new Chinese restaurant just off the Champs-Elysées is the closest you’ll ever come to stepping inside an aquarium. Tropical fish flit behind bubbling glass walls and water swirls giddily underfoot, as you walk across the translucent floors, also brimming with sea life... Not quite as remarkable as the decor, the cuisine comprises worthwhile dishes based on a choice of Chinese or Thai specialties. Classic shrimp toast is served with a lovely, spicy sauce and the main courses include fragrant chicken wrapped in leaves, as well as a generous portion of piquant sautéed vegetables. Service is polite and efficient.$$


Price Key: $=up to 120F. $$=up to 200F. $$$=more than 200F. Price estimates include three courses based on average à la carte prices but not wine.