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Spice of life...| Ice cream
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The Chef, Christian Moine at Montparnasse 25, le Méridien
courtesy of Montparnasse 25, le Méridien
Paris dining with atmosphere
by Julie Baker
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In Whether offering classic or contemporary cuisine, below is a selection of restaurants chosen because of their bustling, companionable ambiance and atmospheric decor. Those wishing to share the Christmas spirit can make a donation to L’Association les Restaurants du Cœur, 221 rue La Fayette, 10e or La Mie de Pain, 18 rue Charles Fournier, 13e.

Montparnasse 25 Le Meridien Montparnasse, 19 rue du Commandant Mouchotte, 14e, M° Montparnasse-Bienvenue/Gaîté, tel: 01 44 36 44 25, closed Sat & Sun Montparnasse 25’s spotlit black-lacquered interior, set off by the hot flush of red carnations and the dimmed reflection of smoked glass, looks like a nightclub setting from a Melville film. Better than the period glamour of its decor is the assertive and stylish cooking from Chef Christian Moine. We began a memorable meal with perfectly cooked foie gras with truffles and potatoes, and an unusual and delicious dish of lobster tail served between sheets of lasagna with a pistou sauce, girolles mushrooms and asparagus tips. The wild duck with figs, in a sweet and sour sauce accompanied by a sprinkling of nuts and figs and strips of deep fried potato, was a subtle rendering of a classic with a modern sensibility. The service is sharply-focused and considerate, and the sommelier’s suggestions of a South African Chamonix chardonnay and a Puligny Montrachet were inspired choices. Whatever you do, leave room for cheese: the taxi-sized platter, under the professorial custodianship of Monsieur Gérard Poulard, is justly reputed to be the finest in town.

Pavillon Ledoyen
carré des Champs-Elysées, 1 rue du Tuit, 8e, M° Champs Elysées-Clemenceau, tel: 01 53 05 10 01, closed weekends Nestled among the chestnut trees between the Champs-Elysées and the Petit Palais is one of the most luxurious restaurants in Paris. Established in 1792, the Pavillon Ledoyen is the perfect place for that special celebration or just to be reminded of the level of culinary excellence that Paris has to offer. The beautiful upstairs dining room evokes the sensation of living in another era, when space was not a premium. Chef Christian Le Squer delivers impeccably presented dishes that display his mastery of the classic seasonal repertoire and his love for innovation. On our last visit, the millefeuille de foie gras — layers of pan-fried foie gras and apple — served with lamb’s lettuce and tossed in truffle oil was delectable as was the sea-bass in a crispy skin, accompanied by a creamy broccoli flan spiced with mustard.

Il Palazzo Normandy Hôtel, 7 rue de l’Echelle, 1er, M° Pyramide, tel: 01 42 60 91 20, open daily Midway between the Louvre and Opéra, this visually stunning Italian restaurant boasts a decor that manages to be both imposing and playful, and makes a spectacular setting for one of the festive season’s most tempting new innovations: afternoon tea built entirely around chocolate. On Saturday afternoons Chef Pâtissier Hugues Pouget prepares a lavish buffet that offers every imaginable variation and degree of chocolate: cakes, macaroons, tarts, mousses, tiramisu, madeleines, brownies and chocolate pain d’epice set off by displays of organic contrasts and complements: ripened sugar cane, cascading mounds of kumquats, tumbling chestnuts and split cocoa pods. For those whose appetites are no match for the challenging feast it is possible to order individual dishes that also display Chef Pouget’s talents to good advantage, especially accompanied by a tasse of hot chocolate.

Les Grandes Marches 6 pl de la Bastille, 12e, M° Bastille, tel: 01 43 42 90 32, open daily While the Bastille Opera is still the object of fierce debate, there can be no doubts about the restaurant adjoining it: Les Grandes Marches is a resounding success. A huge, comfortable terrace leads into a sleek, copper-hued room, perfect for an intimate tête-à-tête. The swirling central staircase climbs up to a curved dining room overlooking the place de la Bastille and a congenial cocktail bar, both of which recall the glamour of art deco. In such a vast restaurant that hums with style, it is a pleasure to find waiting staff that are warm and welcoming. The menu offers a range of delightful dishes that include an excellent croustilles de gambas marinated in gentle curry spices and superb Gillardeau oysters. The generous and perfectly cooked foie de veau simply served with dauphinois potatoes was exceptional. One of the pleasant surprises in the dessert section is the marvelous violet ice-cream with raspberry macaroon. In homage to the artistic nature of the neighborhood, the restaurant presents exhibitions by leading artists. French photographer Serge Hambourg’s whose striking portrayal of New York public spaces and celebrity portraits are currently featured.

Ze Kitchen Galerie 4 rue des grands Augustins, 6e, M° St-Michel, tel: 01 44 32 00 32, closed midday Sat & Sun Located just a stone’s throw from Picasso’s old atelier, there are plenty of artistic references in Ze Kitchen Galerie, the new restaurant just opened by Chef William Ledeuil of Les Bookinistes. Its vast windows opening onto a loft-like space, distressed stone pillars, parquet floor and boldly displayed artwork recall an artist’s studio, while the gleaming open kitchen, sleek tables and dazzling Philippe Starck silverware speak of the many links between the kitchen and the art gallery. The cuisine is inventive, contemporary and often spectacular, exploring the marriage of ingredients from differing cultures and focusing in particular on the delicateness of freshly grilled ingredients. We were impressed throughout by the combination of colors and textures, such as the frothy artichoke cream soup with chicken wings which possessed a warm, velvety consistency, the wonderful conchiglie pasta stuffed with mushrooms, walnuts and the intriguing ripeness of old mimolette cheese, as well as the delicious brochettes of shitake mushrooms, mussels, shrimp and grilled vegetables. Amid a precise, well-chosen wine list, our Alsatian pinot noir handled the complex combinations with style.

Le Restaurant Meurice, Hotel Meurice 228, rue de Rivoli, 1er, M° Tuileries, tel: 01 44 58 10 10, open daily One of the great palace-hotels of Paris, the Meurice’s sumptuous 19th Century dining room boasts marble columns, lofty ornate ceilings and gilded mirrors, affording a magical setting for a meal. The cuisine presents classics with great definition and style, often with a hint of the exotic, such as crab or lobster highlighted by nuances of anis or a creamy sauce of fava beans with a hint of spice. Our main courses — noisettes of tender baby lamb caressed by the added perfume of an almond sauce poured at the table, and a superb Limousin fillet of beef, a masterpiece of flavors combining truffles, sherry and capers – were exquisitely executed. Special holiday events include an exhibition of Christmas trees designed by various French fashion magazines and festive menus featuring Maine lobster and venison with cêpes mushrooms served in the Hotel’s Jardin d’Hiver as well as a traditional turkey menu for 60 euros on Christmas and New Year’s Day.


Ze Kitchen Galerie
© W.A Dudley

Les Grands Marches
© W.A Dudley