Whether you are looking for an elegant watering hole, majestic settings, exotic fare, or simply a friendly neighborhood bistro, here are some suggestions to help make your holiday dining experience special.
Le Bar Cambon Hotel Ritz, 38 rue Cambon, 1er, M° Madeleine, tel: 01 43 16 30 90, closed Sun, open from 6pm. Drinks from 14E, champagne from 20E, plates from 7E. The management of the Ritz Hotel have chosen the festive season to re-open the original 1921 Ritz bar, closed for some time and now re-dedicated as a stylish champagne bar. This establishment boasts rich historical connections for English-speaking expats: Scott, Hem, Joyce and Gerald Murphy were all regulars, and it was here that Cole Porter composed “Begin the Beguine.” Whilst Hemingway “liberated” the Ritz in 1944, the most famous liberation of all was when the actress Constance Bennett scandalized the all-male patrons of the Bar Cambon by forcing entry dressed as a man, shaming the management into granting women the right of admission in 1936. Today the fabulous brass and red leather cocktail bar, overlooked by an ornate mother of pearl Venetian mirror, still dominates the large room while a marble and wrought-iron fireplace, complete with blazing logs, stands guard over the second, more intimate salon. Begin with one of the bar’s many champagnes or its superb, red-fruit champagne cocktail then try one of Chef Michel Roth and Chef Eddie Benghanem’s tapas-sized savory or dessert plates, stunningly presented on modern plates with antique signature base plates.
Restaurant Le Meurice Hotel Meurice, 228 rue de Rivoli, 1er, M° Tuileries, tel: 01 44 58 10 10, closed Sun, Christmas Eve menu 300E, New Year’s Eve menu 690E. After extensive renovations four years ago, the culminating event of this fabled restaurant was the arrival of the young and dynamic Chef Yannick Alléno last September, complete with 33 of his previous team from the nearby Les Muses restaurant at the Hôtel Scribe. His exquisitely composed dishes mirror admirably the beauty of the Meurice’s glorious dining room with its ornate mosaic floor, towering marble pillars, lofty windows, gilded mirrors and ceiling frescoes. One of his signature dishes which will appear on his New Year's Eve menu is the crab claws with citrus fruits and caviar, which is truly a pleasure to both behold and to taste. Chef Alléno has a perfect match in Chef Patissier Kirke Whittle who not only ensures a brilliant finish to the meal but also adds a few original surprises in the mignardises. ___
Yugaraj 14 rue Dauphine, 6e, tel: 01 43 26 44 91, M° Odéon, tel: 01 43 26 44 91, closed Mon & Thur lunch, menu 29.70E, 37.50E, 49.55E. When he opened this elegant restaurant earlier this year, the main goal of the proprietor, Kulendran Meyappen, was to serve authentic Indian food based upon traditional Indian recipes using the highest quality French produce, with prices to match. Set on a bustling street between the Latin Quarter and the fashionably St-Germain district, the intimately lit interior is dominated by intricate wooden wall carvings and ornate statuettes. There is an ample selection of curries based on fish, chicken or lamb and the surrounding explanations provide clear guidance for anyone not familiar with Indian food. The lamb preparations are particularly delectable, using suckling lamb for extra tenderness. Of course Indian cuisine is always kind to vegetarians and on offer are a list of mildly spicy dishes. __
Il Viaggio 34 rue de Bourgogne, 7e, M° Varenne, tel: 01 45 55 80 75, closed Sat lunch & Sun, menus 22E, 26E and 30E. This elegant Italian restaurant attracts a variety of romantic couples, locals and discerning Italians from the nearby Italian embassy. Chef Giovanni Perrone has created a gastronomic menu that embraces the warm generosity of Italian cuisine with the sensuousness of French presentation. It was a delight to discover the expertly grilled marinated vegetables and the wonderful pappardelle served with a slightly spicy tomato and aubergine sauce. Like all the pasta here, it was homemade. For a main course, try the intriguing foie de veau with a luscious sauce of coffee and amaretto, a heavenly combination, or the lamb fillet in a herb crust, cooked to perfection. The wine list offers some lesser-known but superb Italian wines, including a red Aglianico Ré Manfredi that had great character and depth. __
Les Tontons 38 rue Raymond Losserand, 14e, M° Pernety, tel: 01 43 21 69 45, closed Sun. Thanks to the enthusiasm of proprietor Jean-Guillaume Dufour, this neighborhood institute, once a well-loved if dilapidated bar, has been turned into a classic bistro serving honest, well prepared food at very reasonable prices. Even better, the original 1920 décor including mosaic walls in shades of emerald, aqua and gold, gold-framed mirrors, large louvre windows and pewter beer spigots surmounting the bar have all been preserved. After trying a rare but delightful aperitif, Ma Mas Amiel, a Grenache-based wine with a sweet roundness, we began with an excellent gésiers salad with generous slivers of homemade foie gras, and a lovely Coquilles St Jacques terrine with a light, creamy sauce. Our main courses were a filling, no frills cassoulet and a magret de canard and a cèpes mushrooms with a sauce that was rather too heavy for the duck. We noticed that all the dishes of our neighbors were as copious as ours, and there was no room left to try the dessert specialties: chocolate mousse and different flavored crème brûlées. Amongst the thoughtful selection of regional wines are a Domaine des Tours 1999 at 14E and a Médoc cru bourgeois, Château Noaillac 1997 at 18E. E
Contact Julie Baker at: parisdining@hotmail.com
Price Key: E = up to 25 €, EE = up to 45 €, EEE = more than 45 €. Prices are based on the average cost of an entrée, a main course and a dessert and do not include wine. Although every care is made compiling estimates, we cannot assume any responsibility for any fluctuations or changes.
