Whether enjoying lunch on a sunny terrace or dining at midnight in one of the city’s hotspots, Paris has something to offer everyone this summer. . .
Right Bank
L’Espadon Hotel Ritz 15 pl Vendôme, M° Opéra, tel: 01 43 16 30 80, open daily, lunch menu 68E evening dégustation menu 160E In the daytime, the secret courtyard terrace of L’Espadon is flooded with sunshine and flowers, while at night it dances with the shimmer of candles. Thanks to the exquisitely thoughtful menu of Chef Michel Roth, the food more than matches the setting. From the à la carte we had the superb pairing of green asparagus and langoustines, where slivers of Parmesan were mirrored by shaved courgette, creating a wonderful visual harmony to set off the contrasts of texture and taste. Among the desserts, the delightful chocolate and coffee sabayon served in a martini glass was light and feathery. EEEE
Man Ray 34 rue Marbeuf, 8e, M° Franklin D Roosevelt, tel: 01 56 88 36 36, closed lunch Sat & Sun, lunch menu 20E. Co-founded by a group of artists including Johnny Depp, Sean Penn and John Malkovich, Man Ray’s cool quota has always been high, especially during its famous Friday and Saturday night dance sessions. The decor too carries a high voltage charge of glamour. Its cuisine has recently undergone a complete makeover. The confusing world food theme has been replaced by an altogether leaner, healthier and more reliable menu, with pride of place given to plancha vegetables and fish cooked to order like sliced sea scallops sautéed with black bean sauce and wok vegetables. EEE
La Cantine du Faubourg 105 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré, 8e, M° St-Philippe-du-Roule, tel: 01 42 56 22 22, open daily. This vast and visually stunning restaurant is sub-divided into intimate areas by wooden screens and diaphanous curtains. High-tech video screens supply a virtual reality terrace with trembling fields of poppies by day, waves of rolling clouds at night, while deep banquettes with plush cushions, long-necked wicker urns and candles evoke the interior of a fantasy desert tent. Both our main courses were standouts: a generous, rich foie de veau with tender leek and a perfectly cooked peppered tuna steak served with crispy vegetables. EE
Left Bank
Ze Kitchen Galerie 4 rue des grands Augustins, 6e, M° St-Michel, tel: 01 44 32 00 32, closed lunch Sat & Sun, menus (with glass of wine) 21,, 24,, 27E, 32E. Located across the road from Picasso’s old atelier, there are artistic references aplenty in Ze Kitchen Galerie, Chef William Ledeuil’s dazzling, Left Bank restaurant. The luminous, open space recalls an artist’s studio and the cuisine too is inventive and contemporary, exploring the juxtaposition of ingredients from differing cultures and focusing on the use of spices. We were impressed by the tantalizing combination of colors and textures, such as the crispy-skin cabillaud with a tempura of Asian vegetables. EE
Contre-Allée 83 av Denfert-Rochereau, 14e, M° Denfert-Rochereau tel: 01 43 54 99 86, closed Sun, Menus 27E, 31E, 37E. Long a neighborhood terrace favorite, this chic yet friendly restaurant is enjoying something of a renaissance, thanks to the arrival of new chef, Christian Lalonne, who has redirected the menu towards seasonal ingredients. Giant raviolis stuffed with Parmesan and Ricotta in a reduced broth was a hit as was the dessert — tiny macaroons based around a symphony of flowers, with rose and poppy flavored ice cream sprinkled with candied violets and rose petals. EE
Price Key: E = up to 20E, EE = up to 40E, EEE = up to 60E, EEEE = more than 60E. Prices are based on the average cost of an entrée, a main course and a dessert and do not include wine.
