For a non-thematic show, “Ouverture pour Inventaire” (Open for Inventory) isn’t only original in its genre but also one of the more interesting exhibitions in town. Instead of telling a story vis-à-vis a moment in time, the Palais Galliera’s mission here is to educate the public via the archiving and cataloging of donations made to the museum. Along the way, visitors are given a mini lesson in fashion history.

A sampling of the Palais Galliera’s 90 000 archived items is deployed to convey the diversity of the museum’s collections, which range from 18th century bourgeois finery to contemporary creations. Everything is organized in sections defining the item’s type (gloves, boots, collars, bustles, etc.) and age, plus the designer’s name, if known. In addition, Galliera boasts separate categories such as lingerie, accessories and even doll’s clothes. Apropos of which, one of the stand-out aspects of this display is a precious series of meticulously-dressed high fashion dolls, roughly the size of a Barbie but dating back to the 19th century and made by Lafitte and Desirat... These 30-centimeter miniatures were clad in scaled versions of couture clothes sent off to the far corners of Europe and America, as a way of promoting the latest Parisian styles, long before there were trunk shows and glossy fashion magazines.

The exhibit also serves as a mini object lesson in fashion history. (Free) electronic guides situate each article in time and space, while supplying further background information on each designer whose apparel appears in the show. And, here again, there is much to marvel at: from Madame Grès’ pin pleated gowns to gold lame Haute Couture evening coats, all the way through to Martin Margiela recoup’ garb and “puk-puk” jackets by Walter Von Beirendonck (Wild and Lethal Trash).