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With the holidays approaching, one can't help but think of family gatherings or romantic outings... where to go, what to do, how to make those vacation days and nights special. In France, there is no shortage of possibilities, but my advice is: Get the Royal Treatment.
"château" evokes images of "enchantment." While many castles in France are still owned by descendants of royalty sporting titles such as "Count and Countess," one needn't have such lineage to be a guest overnight in a real French château centuries old, bursting with history, to be treated like royalty, to enjoy the luxury and elegance. "Enchanting!"
Many châteaux have opened their doors and gardens in the last few years as alternatives to a hotel or bed and breakfast. That's because many of the aristocracy and châteaux owners of France can no longer support the expense of maintaining these magnificent relics without the help of the government or tourism. Now getting the royal treatment isn't very expensive. In fact, most are as reasonable as a two-star hotel.
One needn't travel too far from Paris to find them. The four we visited are all in the area of Poitiers, only about three hours from Paris by car, and easily reachable by train to nearby cities. Each château open to the public has its own personality and provenance, each offering something different and special. In the vicinity of these châteaux, there are many other activities to take advantage of: the neighboring cities and villages such as Poitiers, Chauvigny, La Rochelle, Richelieu; the Futuroscope theme park; Romanesque abbeys; golf courses; boat trips; vineyards and wine cellars.
Le château de la GuillonniËre, a 16th-century castle near the ancient Roman road leading from Poitiers to Limoges, was once host to author George Sand and was uninhabited since the end of the World War II until its recent complete restoration. The main castle now houses the owners, Marie-France and Georges Rebillard, and accommodates 12 in five guest rooms. Open to guests are three salons and an 18th-century terrace. A guest house adjacent to the château accommodates four and has a living room and fully equipped kitchen. Annex buildings surrounding the main courtyard house an enormous all-occasion room, kitchen, terrace and barbecue. There is a unique indoor swimming pool and a fitness-room to take advantage of if you don't want to leave the tranquility of the estate.
Guest rooms at La GuillonniËre range from 270F to 510F per night and the complete guest house rents for 1,700F per week. The reception hall is available from 2,500F to 5,000F depending on the facilities used and the entire castle is available for on-location filming or photographing. In the spirit of the turn of the century, the entire château is available for the week of New Year 2000 for 30,000F ó a bargain to bring in the new year in regal style.
Le château de Ranton is 12 kilometers west of Loudun on route to Thouars. It is a fortified castle from the 14th century ó a perfect specimen. A bridge crosses a dry moat to enormous arched wooden doors, which lead to a beautiful garden dotted by tall evergreens and wisteria and roses. This is an absolute fairy tale world. The impeccable restoration of Ranton is owed to the dedication and hard work of the owners, Paola Butler and Peter Johnston, expatriates from England.
Le Ranton is a perfect gathering spot for a large family or group of friends as it's rented only in its entirety and can accommodate up to 12 people. Guest rooms are on the ground level of the château, along with a modernized kitchen, a spacious dining room and a large salon, each with a 16th-century open hearth fireplace. There is a large room with an arched ceiling for receptions and gatherings of different types. Rental rates range from 8,000F to 12,000F per week, depending on the season.
Le château de St-Loup is owned by Count Charles-Henri de Bartillat, who is devoting his life to the complete and perfect restoration of its buildings and gardens. Only a 45-minute drive from Poitiers, St-Loup is romantically inspiring. It is grandiose in itself, with a medieval Keep at one corner. Enormous gilded gates and a wrought-iron fence border the gardens. The main castle is a perfect example of Henri IV and Louis XIII style, built in the 17th century.
A small pavilion for an intimate dinner sits at the end of a tree-lined canal, a very romantic spot. The Orangerie is perfection ó geometric patterns of hedges and shrubs, orange trees, jasmine and bougainvillea, including 17 different varieties of citrus plants representing the Garden of Eden. The potager is being restored, based on the exact plans from 1745 and there is a fruit orchard of apples, cherries, peaches, almonds, pears and apricots.
The Black Prince once imprisoned John the Good in the Keep which now has expansive guest rooms, and there are a further seven guest rooms in the main castle, in total accommodating 23 people. Occupancy ranges from 650F to 950F per night plus breakfast. In the grounds, you can also admire the pigeonnier, attend a concert in the converted stables or use the newly built reception space, especially perfect for weddings with up to 400 guests.
Le château de Tennessus is a remarkably authentic 14th-century castle complete with moat, working drawbridge, arrow slits and battlements. No one knows who built the original Keep at Tennessus, but in 1989, Tennessus fell into the hands of British owners, Pippa and Nick Freeland, who launched a major restoration program and opened the doors of this magnificent testimony to the Middle Ages. It is decorated in true medieval style and its lodgings offer accommodations with all the modern comforts and facilities.
The bed and breakfast rooms located in the Keep are enormous, virtually unchanged with heavily beamed ceilings, bare stone walls, granite fireplaces. Double occupancy is 550F per night, including breakfast. The southwest wing of the château is a completely self-contained apartment which sleeps five and comprises the original gatehouse and west tower. You enter it by crossing the drawbridge, walking across a courtyard and through a stone vaulted entrance hall. The castle apartment rents from 3,500F to 5,000F per week, depending on the season. Three dining rooms in the castle are available, seating up to 50 people for receptions, and these rooms can also facilitate seminars and conferences. As a guest, you may take advantage of the tranquil grounds of the château to boat and fish in the moat or to use the swimming pool, to play badminton, croquet, ping-pong or boules.
There's only one problem with spending a few nights with this kind of royal treatment: when it's all over, it will seem like a dream. Maybe it really is.
Adrian Leeds is the author of "Leeds Good Value Guide to Paris Restaurants" http://www.wfi.fr/leeds/leeds@wfi.fr.
Detailed information about these châteaux and how to make reservations can be obtained directly from their Web sites or by contacting WebFrance International:
Château de la Guillonnière, http://www.wfi.fr/guillonniere
Château de Ranton, http://www.wfi.fr/ranton/
Château de Tennessus, http://www.tennessus.com
Château de St-Loup, Web site in progress, for information contact WebFrance International
WebFrance International, http://www.wfi.frthalman@wfi.fr
00.33.(0)1.60.12.05.65.
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