Oriental Cabaret

"Joyeux Nöel"
at Disneyland Paris
 

Galleries Lafayette

US cheerleaders in the 1998 Paris Parade Festival

Viaduc des Arts

Paris is overflowing with activities this season as Christmas shows, window displays, markets, masses, concerts and special events spread holiday cheer throughout the City of Lights

NEW HOLIDAY EVENTS & ANNUAL ACTIVITIES

Skaters can practice figure eights on a giant ice skating rink at Hôtel de Ville surrounded by Christmas trees, holiday decorations and manger scenes. Free admission, skate rentals available. Dec 15 to Mar 7, 1999, 9am to 10pm, Hôtel de Ville, 4e, Metro Hôtel de Ville, tel: 01.49.52.53.56.

The traditional holiday celebration in Paris wouldn't be complete without Christmas mass at Notre Dame. Dec 24, 6:30pm, 9pm and midnight; Dec 25, 8am, 8:45am, 10am, 11:30am, 12:30pm (reservations required) and 6:30pm, Cathedral Notre-Dame de Paris, pl du Parvis Notre-Dame, 4e, Metro St-Michel-Notre-Dame, tel: 01.42.34.56.10. A life-size manger is placed in front of the cathedral, Dec 5 to Jan 3, 1999, 10am to 7:30pm, entrance 35F/25F.

International performing artists at Le Cirque de Moscou join children's choirs from around Paris in an unprecedented holiday celebration in the Bois de Vincennes. Patrick Marco directs gymnasts, ice skaters, acrobats and Christmas carolers in this alternative Midnight Mass on the Grass. Dec 24, 11:30pm, Pelouse de Reuilly, Bois de Vincennes, 12e, Metro Porte Dorée, tel: 01.44.70.64.10.

An exhibition of 120 mangers created by artists from around the world brings each country's customs and culture to Paris for "Noël aux Cinq Continents." Nativity scenes made out of sculpted redwood from Rwanda, paper maché from Mexico and ebony from the Ivory Coast are among the diverse displays of holiday traditions and folklore. To Jan 2, 1999, 10am to 7:30pm, Le Forum des Halles, 1&3, Grand Balcon, niv-1, Porte Lescot or Berger, 1er, Metro Les Halles, free admission.

Jean-Pierre Coffe takes visitors back in time a half-a-century in "La Crèche du Vieux-Paris," a holiday reenactment of medieval Paris with 400 performers in period costumes. Dec 4 to Jan 4, 1999, 10am-8pm, place du Palais-Royal (under a heated tent), 1er, Metro Palais-Royal, tel: 01.40.21.40.41.

Free Christmas merry-go-rounds for children are set up outside the town halls of all 20 Paris arrondissements from Dec 19 until Jan 3, 1999 and Christmas Lights are strung throughout the neighborhoods of Paris. The prettiest decorations are along the avenue des Champs-Elysées and on avenue Montaigne and place Vendôme as well as rue de la Paix, rue du faubourg St-Honoré and rue Royale.

The best sights can be viewed this season from a Giant Ferris Wheel spinning around the point in Paris from which the most monuments can be seen. Dec 19 to Jan 3, 1999, 10:30am to 7:30pm, pl de la Concorde (next to Tuilleries Garden) 1er, Metro Concorde.

In what could be called a virtual réveillon, Paris' community of "dot com-ers" can spend New Year's Eve in cyberspace at the Web Bar's '70s pop funk party with dinner and dancing. Dec 31, Web Bar, 32, rue Picardie, 3e, Metro Filles du Calvaire, tel: 01.42.72.66.55, tickets 300F/150F.

The annual Paris Parade Festival transforms the winding streets of Montmartre into Main Street USA for an all-American New Year's Day Parade with over 2,000 performers from across the United States, including marching bands, cheerleaders, majorette troupes, drummers, circus acts, costumed characters and more. Jan 1, 2-3pm, starts at the corner of bd Rochechouart and rue des Martyrs, 18e, Metro Anvers, Pigalle, Abbesses.

CHRISTMAS MARKETS

Several Christmas Markets are taking place in December and offer an inexpensive and creative alternative to traditional shopping venues.

La Foire Saint-Nicholas allows shoppers to buy direct from Santa's workshop where 40 French and international artists sell hand-made toys, decorations, jewelry, tableware and more. To Dec 6, 10am to 7:30pm, place de la Bourse, 2e, Metro Bourse, tel: 01.43.76.13.00.

At the Parc Floral de Paris Christmas Market, 250 exhibitors from every region in France display thousands of holiday gift ideas. A manger with live animals, a miniature Christmas village, children's choirs, clowns, mimes and musicians contribute to the holiday atmosphere of this weekend festival. Dec 4-6, 2pm to 10pm, Parc Floral de Paris, rte de la Pyramide, Bois de Vincennes, 12e, Metro Château de Vincennes, tel: 02.38.61.00.62.

Over 75 painters, booksellers, jewelry-makers, artists and artisans sell their wares at an all-day Arts & Crafts Festival at the American Church. One-stop holiday shopping with thousands of original gifts to choose from; lunch and snacks also available. Dec 5, 11am to 6pm, The American Church in Paris, 65, quai d'Orsay, 7e, tel: 01.40.62.05.07, free admission.

An Alsatian Christmas Market takes place at Gare de l'Est with regional artisan products, gourmet baked goods, Christmas tree decorations, Advent crowns, music boxes, Alsatian Christmas books and pottery. Two miniature Alsatian villages are recreated and Saint Nicholas hands out gingerbread Santas to children. Dec 8-19, 9am to8pm, Gare de l'Est, Halls Banlieue et Grandes Lignes, 10e, Metro Gare de l'Est, tel: 01.56.59.04.82.

CHRISTMAS WINDOW DISPLAYS

Paris' large shopping centers and small boutiques are all gussied up for the holidays with a wild array of festive window displays.

The 45 artisan shops along the Viaduc des Arts explore the theme of "Le Sapin Imaginaire" and La Chocolaterie Royale d'Orléans offers free samples to shoppers as they cross names off their shopping lists with gifts of handmade furniture, frames, musical instruments, stationary, candles and more. Dec 7 to Jan 4, 1999, 10am to 6:30pm, Viaduc des Arts, 87, av Daumesnil, 12e, Metro Bastille, Gare de Lyon.

Les Boutiques du Carrousel du Louvre are decorated in gold this year with snow and icicles creating an enchanted fairyland. Children can win Christmas prizes playing hide-and-seek with a holiday snow queen. Dec 7-24, Les Boutiques du Carrousel du Louvre, 99, rue de Rivoli, 1er, Metro Louvre-Rivoli.

Le Bon Marché livens up the Left Bank with holiday glitter, gifts and goodies. Film costume designer Christian Gask's animated window displays spotlight fairy tale legend Perrault. Le Bon Marché, 24, rue de Sèvres, 7e, Metro Sèvres-Babylone.

Constellations created by Christian Lacroix revolve around the Galeries Lafayette. Gilded gift ideas orbit through their Christmas window displays, suggesting lamps, frames, clothes and other star-studded gifts. A circus of teddy bears in outer space, bell-hop frogs, and Judy Jetson Barbies lend a new take to Santa's helpers. To Dec 31, Galeries Lafayette, 40, bv Haussmann, 9e, Metro Chaussée d''Antin.

Printemps put fall colored leaves and Christmas lights on the trees along boulevard Haussmann and sets the mood outside with a Frank Sinatra recording of "I'll be home for Christmas." Store windows are animated in a winter candyland that'd make Willy Wonka jealous. As part of their "EuroChristmas" celebration, Basile the bear hands out "euro candy" to children. To Dec 31, Printemps, 64, bd Haussmann, 9e, Metro Chaussée d'Antin.

CHRISTMAS CONCERTS

A medley of holiday music concerts fill the churches of Paris with the sounds of Christmas past.

"Ensemble Olivier Opdebeeck et Ensemble Vocal Cori Spezzati" perform an evening of classic Venetian Christmas carols. Dec 10, 8:30pm, Eglise St-Louis des Invalides, 2, av de Tourville, 7e, Metro St-Francois-Xavier, tel: 01.42.77.51.14.

"Candlelight Christmas Concerts" are presented by the Choir and Handbell Choirs of the American Church in Paris, directed by Fred Gramann, and the Children's Choir of Créteil, directed by Scott Prouty and featuring Claudia Valsi on harp. Dec 12, 8pm; Dec 13, 7:30pm, the American Church in Paris, 65, quai d'Orsay, 7e, Metro Invalides, tel: 01.40.62.05.00, tickets 100F/50F.

"Un Noël à Moscou." Anatoly Grindenko directs a Russian choral concert of ancient orthodox, traditional Russian and religious songs. Dec 25 to Jan 1, 1999, Eglise St-Louis-en-l'Ile, 19 bis, rue St-Louis-en-l'Ile, 4e, Metro Sully-Morland, tel: 01.43.55.47.09.

"Concert de Noël aux Chandelles." A Renaissance-style Christmas concert from the Middle Ages is performed by the Ensemble Alegria. Dec 26, 9pm, Eglise St-Julien-le-Pauvre, 23, quai de Montebello, 5e, Metro Maubert-Mutualité, tel: 01.42.50.96.18.

HOLIDAY-TIME SHOWS

While many Anglophones may long for "The Nutcracker" and "A Christmas Carol," Paris' line-up of annual holiday shows has become a Christmas ritual in its own right.

"Joyeux Noël à Disneyland Paris." Everyday during the holidays, the Disney Village celebrates Christmas with a musical parade led by a magic fairy, Disney characters and Santa Claus. The new musical comedy "Mickey and the Magic Winter" highlights this family holiday happening. To Jan 10, 1999, Disneyland Paris, RER A- Marne-la-Vallée/Chessy, tel: 01.60.30.60.69, admission 210F/130F (family passes also available).

Le Cirque de Moscou sur Glace. Over 50 ice skating artists and musicians, acrobats, jugglers, monkeys and bears bring this unusual big top from Moscow to Paris for the 5th annual International Festival of Circus Stars. To Jan 3, 1999, Chapiteau EdS Zavatta, Pelouse Reuilly, 12e, Metro Porte Dorée, tel: 01.49.87.32.32, tickets 83-226F.

"The Magic Flute." Mozart's classic 1791 opera with text by Emmanuel Schikaneder is performed in two acts by La Grande Ecurie and La Chambre du Roy Maîtrise du Centre de Musique Baroque de Versailles, conducted by Jean-Claude Malgoire and directed by Pierre Constant. Dec 5,7,9,11,13,15,18, Theatre des Champs-Elysées, 15, av Montaigne, 8e, Metro Franklin D. Roosevelt, tel: 01.49.52.50.50.

"Crescend'O: l'eau et le cirque." This synchronized swimming spectacle created by modern-day mermaid Muriel Hermine combines the gracefulness of water ballet with the craziness of a circus  and throws a horse in the ring for good measure. To Jan 10, 1999, Cirque d'Hiver Boulione, 110, rue Amelot, 11e, Metro Filles-du-Calvaire, tel: 01.49.87.57.57, tickets 249F/116F.

issue: December 98/ January 99

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