rectrectrectrectrectrectrectrect
Picture
Picture
Picture
 food  movies  music  books  dance  theatre
Picture



 

Bouillabaisse Basics

 tea rooms
Picture

by Julie Baker

Le Quinson

This friendly neighborhood seafood restaurant has been keeping customers happy for more than half a century. The large windows, mosaic floor, white linen napkins and little corner bar are touches from the past. Only the iridescent blue ceiling, suggesting a swimming pool hovering above your head, brings a modern note to the establishment.

The restaurant's reputation rests on the house specialty, a superb bouillabaisse offered in two forms. The "Père Quinson" for 139F is a classic version of the Mediterranean fish stew, the fish being served with the bones as tradition would have it. The "Quinson Fils" for 169F is an updated version, offering filleted fish that allows one to dine more elegantly, without the fuss of bones. It is also served with a special portion of langoustines.

Both my husband and I decided to opt for tradition, and we were not disappointed. The richly flavored and wonderfully satisfying soup served as an entrée and accompanied by croutons, garlic cloves and a spicy  rouillesauce, was one of the best I've ever had, and was perfect preparation for the arrival of the fish platter. Among our fish were portions of sea bream, scorpion fish, conger eel, crab, mussels and  viveor weaver fish, a fish not often found. Wines include a white Saumur for 99F and a Bandol rosé for 119F. Our white Cassis was superb and very reasonable at 129F. We also appreciated the attentiveness of the service which was warm, polite and efficient.

Despite the copious portions, the desserts, at around 30F each, were too tempting to pass up. I found the nougat glacé with delicately spun caramel to be a heavenly end to a wonderful meal, while my husband's orange mousse was light with tiny pieces of orange zest adding a wonderful texture.

Although pride of place is rightfully given to bouillabaisse, the restaurant doesn't neglect other dishes, boasting a very extensive and reasonably priced à la carte menu. While fish predominates, there are also several meat dishes such as  fricasséerabbit with basil for 79F. The day we were there the plat du jour was fillet of cod in a lentil cream sauce for 79F. And there's a well-priced lunch menu for 98F.

 Le Quinson  , 5, pl Etienne Pernet, 15e, Metro Felix-Faure, tel: 01.45.32.48.54, closed Sun nights and Mon.

 

 calendar  kiosk  cityscan  features  residents
Picture

issue: February 99

webmaster

Name & Contents Copyright © 1999 parisvoice.com , advertise    subscribe    photo credits
 Online version of The Paris Free Voice co-published by Gyoza Media.
Permission is granted to make WWW links to this page. All other rights reserved.

Picture