Restaurants in the hood
by Julie Baker

Neighborhood favorites for the rentrée

The rentrée is the time when we get back in touch with “the real world,” after a blissful summer far from Paris. When the transition seems too hard, try escaping to one of the friendly places below for a delightful setting and enjoyable meal.

Le Pavillon Royal route de Suresnes ,16e, M° Porte Dauphine, tel: 01 45 00 51 00, open daily, menu 210F A sumptuous upstairs dining room with a vast terrace overlooking the lake in the Bois de Boulogne is one of the most magical places to dine in Paris. Excellent service, generously-spaced tables and a very reasonable wine list add to its attractions. The kitchen under chef Vincent Bénéteau is superb, matching the best of contemporary cuisine with accessible prices. From theà la carte selection the langoustines with julienned vegetables and a hint of ginger was very impressive as was the pan-fried fillet of sea-bass with a basil sauce. Standouts among the desserts include a truly sublime chocolate fondant and the exotic fruit salad.

La Petite Cour 8 rue Mabillon, 6e, M° Mabillon, tel: 01 43 26 52 26, open daily, menu 210F Hidden below street level is a delightful medieval courtyard terrace with an abundance of flowers and a cool fountain that has made it a perennial favourite with the fashionable folk of St-Germain-des-Prés. The cuisine is seasonal with some unusual variations on classics such as melon soup with red fruit marinated in the sweet Côteaux de Layon wine. From the fixed price menu they offer a summery marinated salmon and asparagus combination with a creamy but light vinaigrette. The main courses include some fine dishes such as milk-fed calf’s liver or John Dory fillet with basil oil and green vegetables. The chocolate tart with the orange sauce was sublime – a light variation on the usual dense chocolate.

Restaurant La Villa 43 rue Baudin, 92300 Levallois-Perret, M° Pont de Levallois, tel: 01 47 57 23 00, open daily, menu 179F Although the name and interior decor recall Italy, the cuisine of La Villa is decidedly French. The comprehensive menu includes aperitif and wine and some excellent plats du jour, such as tender lamb chops the day we were there. Of particular note on the menu are the saddle of lamb roasted with sage and the bouchant au chocolat coulant with the contrasting texture and taste of bitter orange. The large, pleasant terrace attracts a business clientele during the week, and is a particular favorite for local family groups on weekends, while the friendly, relaxed service adds to the feeling that one if far from Paris.

Aux Senteurs de Provence 295 rue Lecourbe, 15e, M° Convention, tel: 01 45 57 11 98, closed Sun Not just a neighborhood favorite, but more of an institution, this old fashioned L-shaped restaurant places special emphasis on fish and pride of place goes to their classic bouillabaisse, but be warned: the serving is enormous, and there is no need for any entrée to precede it. The multi-layered service is handled with distinction and competence – all the fish is filleted on a side table before being served. There are other items on the menu for those with a lesser appetite such as the classic little squid “suppion” in a tomato sauce or the roasted monkfish, and the wine list is well chosen, with special regard shown to the whites. There is a small terrace at the front.

Dab l’Auberge 161 avenue Malakoff,16e, M° Porte Maillot, tel: 01 45 00 32 22, open daily, menu 210F Anyone in search of a classic Parisian brasserie with a bustling atmosphere, interesting clientele and an excellent kitchen entrenched in traditional dishes that are perfectly executed need look no further than here. As well as the fixed-price menu that includes wine and aperitif, there are three different sizes of seafood platters. Noteworthy à la carte choices include a millefeuille of eggplant and ricotta served warm – simplicity at its best – and the superb Averyron free-range rack of lamb with a mustard crust.Among the house specialities, the veal kidneys roasted whole are highly recommended. Desserts favor classics such as crème brulée or a red fruit gratin. There is a large, sheltered terrace that is popular for Sunday lunch.

Le Matignon Restaurant Rond-point des Champs Elysées, 8e M° Franklin D Roosevelt, tel: 01 43 59 38 70, open daily, menu 140F The new Matignon Restaurant has replaced the old Drugstore Publicis, with the young and talented chef Vincent Léothaud from Guy Savoy at the helm. The setting is superb, with a long terrace overlooking the Champs-Elysées gardens, and an upstairs dining room with fine views and a nautical theme. His dishes play with Mediterranean themes and flavors that are bright and well-executed, with an occasional Asian note as a variation. Accompanied by a delicious pasta salad, the generous duck carpaccio, with a sprinkling of roasted sesame seeds, was wonderful. Fish lovers will want to try the excellent pavés of roasted monkfish with garlic, or tuna steak with confit tomatoes. The soft chocolate cake is a dreamy finish to a meal.

Le Pinocchio de Monte Carlo Bateau Restaurant Italien, allée du Bord-de-l’Eau , 16e, M° Porte d’Auteuil then bus 241, arrêt Hippodrome de Longchamp, tel: 01 42 88 01 88, open daily, menu 150F Moored on the Seine in the shadow of the Bois de Boulogne, this classic Italian restaurant features a chic interior section and a vast floating terrace that is a joy to be on, particularly when the sun is out. The kitchen specializes in homemade pasta and veal dishes, and the generously-proportioned antipasti are an excellent way to begin the meal. All the pasta dishes are inviting, but the spaghetti alle vongole is particularly hard to resist. Desserts include classics such as tiramisu and summery innovations such as the succulent carpaccio d'ananas. The wine list offers a fine choice of excellently-priced Italian wines.