Summer is upon us and how
better to enjoy the languid days and white nights than
over a table with friends? Below is a guide to a selection
of restaurants that offer light summer fare and cool surroundings.
Les Arts
9bis av d’Iéna, 16e, M° Iéna, tel: 01 40 69 27
53, closed weekends & Aug.
This stately restaurant offers exquisite food served in luxurious surroundings
at reasonable prices and, if that weren’t enough, it also boasts
a courtyard garden terrace. A memorable meal began with an excellent
artichoke salad dressed with truffle oil, and marinated salmon with cardamom
matched with goat’s cheese flavored with lemon grass. We shared
the magnificent roast veal rib accompanied by delicious grilled vegetables,
a simply prepared dish that sealed in all the natural flavors of the
meat and which was expertly served at our table. The desserts were spectacular:
a roasted pineapple in an aromatic fennel stick casing accompanied
by a purée of fennel. Once opened at the table, the fruit released
a heavenly bouquet of spicy fragrances. The chocolate dessert married
discs of passion fruit and chocolate layered with whipped cream. €€
Café Moderne
40 rue Notre-Dame des Victoires, 2e, M° Bourse,
tel: 01 53 40 84 10, open daily.
The charming street terrace looking onto the Bourse leads into a sleek,
long elegant restaurant lined with red banquettes and windows looking
onto a pretty courtyard, creating an airy, open feel. The bold modern
art on the lemon walls reflect the confidence of the robust flavors of
a cuisine that is beautifully presented. The freshness of the layered
eggplant and buffalo mozzarella with tapenade was cleverly highlighted
by salty beetroot chips and the squid stuffed with sardines and capers
was a nicely handled combination served on bed of rocket salad. The stuffed
lamb medallions and the slivers of veal with sage and prosciutto ham
were designed with flavor in mind. We appreciated the dacquoise meringue with
strawberries and spiced cream and the daring banana cappucino with
ginger. The dynamic team behind this newly opened restaurant has already
come up with an exciting idea for Monday nights: serving Grand Crus at
cost prices, but the daily list also offers an excellent wine at great
prices. €€
Goldenberg Wagram
69 av Wagram, 17e, M° Ternes, tel: 01 42 27 34 79, open daily.
A convivial Paris institution with a sunny terrace out front and a long,
cool room in the back with marble mosaic floor and hammered leather banquettes,
where all the regulars hang out over a shot of vodka. Summertime is perfect
for sampling their selection of zakouski — tapas-sized hot
or cold Russian hors d’œuvres. We feasted on a selection
of hummous, tarama, excellent pastrami, chopped liver with egg and onion, pirojski with
cheese, eggplant caviar, beureck with spinach, pojarski meatballs,
and sweet fresh onions. Anyone with room to spare can try one of the
house specialties, including the home made borsch, the traditional Hungarian
goulash, or the enormous pot au feu. We were delighted with our red Israeli
merlot, a 2000 Carmel Judean Hills. €€
Ragueneau
202 rue St-Honoré, 1er, M° Palais Royal, tel: 01 42 60 29
20, open Mon to Fri (lunch), Tue to Sat (dinner), Sun (brunch).
Conveniently tucked between the Louvre and the Palais Royal, a terrace
leads into a lofty, cool downstairs room with marble floors, high chrome
tables and a wicked display of cakes and pastries. The upstairs dining
room, with raspberry colored carpets, hot mustard walls and green banquettes,
is given over to more substantial fare, such as the delectable open ravioli
with grilled rouget fillets and a simple but well-made pâté en
croûte with a compote of onions and raisins. While the pavé de
cabillaud was slightly overcooked, our desserts made up for it: a
generous carpaccio d’ananas and a sinful tasse moelleux — a
blend of ice cream and runny chocolate mousse. At only 19€, our
1999 Haute Côtes de Nuit 1999 was very well priced. €€
Ching n’Ling
6 rue Gomboust, 1er, M° Pyramides, tel: 01 42
61 77 47, closed Sun. Although only recently opened,
this breezy, relaxed self-service restaurant has made quite
an impact in this neighborhood, which combines traditional
office workers and cutting-edge fashion folk. There is
a nice little street terrace but we chose the peace and
quiet of the upstairs dining area, a sequence of linked
rooms separated by bleached wooden beams and glowing images
of pursed red lips. The won ton soup was nicely
spiced and accompanied by some excellent shrimp ravioli,
and would have made a meal in itself. We soldiered on with bo-bun noodles,
a nice balance of flavors and ingredients based on mint,
coriander and vegetables, and Singapore noodles with tiny
shrimp, washed down by strong Japanese beer. €
Zen Garden
15 rue Marbeuf, 8e, M° Franklin D Roosevelt, tel: 01 53 23 82 82,
open daily.
Designed to recall a formal garden, complete with pagoda, waterfall effects,
and a striking pebble wall mosaic, the restaurant offers a spacious,
sunny upstairs section and an attractive enclosed terrace on street level.
After admiring the beautiful table service with lovely authentic wooden
bowls and pretty blue service plates, we began with a plateau of hors
d’œuvres for two, which included steamed dumplings, excellent
deep-fried shrimp and crab. This was followed by sizzling scallops served
on a cast-iron griddle freshly cooked and accented by the sweet onions,
and Guo Feng, a rice and seafood dish with scallops, crab, shrimp and
fish served in a traditional cast iron pot. Although extremely copious
it was delicately seasoned and could have benefited from more aromatic
spices. €€
Atelier Renault
53 av des Champ Elysées, 8e, M° Franklin D Roosevelt, tel:
01 42 56 26 11, open daily.
Perched on a sequence of catwalks above a car showroom certainly makes
for a dramatic dining space but is in keeping with the upbeat glitz of
the Champs Elysées. Huge windows afford sweeping views of the
famous thoroughfare but there are also quieter niches available for more
intimate dining. The menu is simplified and well managed to cater for
all tastes and appetites from late morning to the wee hours, ranging
from club sandwiches and pasta to lamb tagine. We tried the light raw
vegetable salad and the generous serving of Serrano ham with chopped
tomato on toast crostini style. The mildly spicy tandori salmon
was served on some wonderful freshly sautéed spinach and the gambas
were well-matched by a lemon risotto. €€
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